Plaza de las Delicias, Ponce /Frazier Nivens
South February-2004, By:Bonnie Doyle
Heading South
Ponce, Arroyo, Guayama, Coamo, Yauco
Ponce, Puerto Rico’s second largest city, was founded in 1692 by Juan Ponce de León’s great-grandson. Today the city is known as “The Pearl of the South.” Some of this pearl’s attractions include the main plaza with the majestic Cathedral de Nuestra Señora de la Guadalupe, spectacular fountains, and the century-old firehouse, famous for its black and red-checkered facade. The nearby Museo de Arte houses the finest collection of European art in the Caribbean. A drive up to the summit of El Vigia Hill promises a spectacular view of the city and the sea from the 100-foot observation tower. The Castillo Serallés (next to the observation tower) stands as an impressive example of Spanish revival architecture from the 1920s.
Just outside the city, you can visit the Centro Ceremonial Indígena de Tibes to see the oldest Indian cemetery to be discovered in the Antilles to date. A museum and reconstructed Indian village will give you a taste of ancient Taíno culture. Hacienda Buena Vista on Route 123 shows you a slice of life from a later era, offering reservation-only tours of a restored 1830s coffee plantation.
If you are fortunate enough to be in Ponce in February, join the Ponce Carnival which celebrates the beginning of Lent. This carnival (February 17-22) is one of the oldest, largest and most lavish events of its kind on the Island. It features lively Bomba and Plena music, local food, bright costumes, and the traditional handcrafted papier-mâché “vejigante” masks (which also make great souvenirs).
To the east of Ponce is Arroyo, a pleasant seaside town with some unusual attractions. This is where Samuel Morse installed Latin America’s first telegraph in 1859. Memorabilia of this milestone are on display at the Museo Antigua Aduana. You can can also take a ride on the Tren del Sur de Arroyo as it follows an old sugarcane route through the surrounding countryside. The major festival for Arroyo, the Cristóbal Sánchez Carnival, is held February 13-16.
Just west of Arroyo is Guayama, a great place to see some classic 19th century architecture. Located in the town plaza and sporting two prominent flat-top towers, the majestic Iglesia San Antonio de Padúa, which began construction in 1827, is the only neo-roman-style church in Puerto Rico. The Museo Casa Cautiño is a good example of the neo-classic Creole design and features an impressive collection of historic paintings, woodcarvings, sculptures and furniture. The Centro de Bellas Artes, also worth a photo stop, features historical artifacts and paintings. If you’re in the Guayama area March 5-7, check out the Feria Dulces Sueños (Sweet Dreams Fair) for great food, local music and a Paso Fino competition – a must-see for all horse enthusiasts.
The municipality of Coamo, one of Puerto Rico’s oldest towns (founded in 1579), is famous for its Baños de Coamo hot springs. Legend has it that Juan Ponce de León came here in search of the Fountain of Youth and it is still a popular attraction and resort area today. The town’s most interesting historic site is the Iglesia Católica San Blás de Illesca, one of the Island’s oldest churches (construction began in 1563). Every year, runners come from all over the world to compete in the 13.1-mile Maratón de San Blás de Illesca, which is held the last day of the town’s patron saint festival. You can attend this year’s festival from January 30th through February 8th.
Yauco was founded to the west of Ponce in 1758 to ward off pirate attacks from the south. Today, Yauco is famous for its rich, flavorful coffee. You want to join the crowds here for the Celebration of the Establishment of the City of Yauco. At this event you’ll get a chance to sample some of the finest coffee in the world. You can also join nature lovers for bird-watching, camping and fishing at the Refugio de Vida Silvestre, located at Luchetti Lake. Reservations are required for camping.
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